Grooming

The aftermath of enervating diseases, especially distemper, and even ordinary subnormal conditions, may be accompanied by a foul smelling sweating of the ear, followed by subsequent inflammation and infection if left unattended. Frequently, too, mere wax and dirt accumulation are sufficient to set up a disagreeable and uncomfortable ear condition that requires prompt attention if it is not to become serious enough to affect the middle ear. The safest assistance that the amateur can give in most cases of ear trouble is what has been described above. If you think an ear infection is present, seek veterinary advice as quickly as possible.

 

 

 

Pads

 

The pads of a dog?s feet are what supports its body and movement. Just like a pair of comfortable shoes, your dog?s pads should be in good condition at all times.

 

Leather should be smooth and thick to give good traction and a bouncy lift to the dog?s walk. The hair in-between the pads should be removed every 6-8 weeks. This hair, if left unattended, can gather into quite a knot and become uncomfortable for your animal when walking.

 

Remove this hair with your #30 blade. You will see that it is cleaned out when the "V" shows clean. The "V" stands for "Victory, I can walk in comfort."

 

Eyes

 

The animal?s eyes are the windows on a world of health for you to see. Eyes should be clear, bright and alert.

 

Puppies are born with their eyes shut. They open on the ninth or tenth day to exhibit a blush, baby stare that gradually changes in color and intelligence every week. The final eye color varies greatly in breeds and individuals, running the gamut from pure china blue to yellow amber, light brown, "burnt sugar", dark brown, hazel and black. The pupil, of course, is always black in the exact center of its surrounding iris.

 

Though sight is not the canine?s best faculty, the ordinary well-fed and well-cared for dog should have scant eye trouble. But lack of vitamin A bearing foods will induce eye trouble and will in fact bring about hazy, filmed eyes and possible ulceration of the cornea which leads to the mistaken assumption that the dog has had an injury. The injury, however, is not of mechanical origin; it is a vitamin deficiency.

 

Occasional colds, drafts and automobile riding will irritate the eye into constant weeping and pus-filled corners; the inflamed lids and flews are usually the parts affected.

 

Constant irritation with eye pus, if left untreated by a veterinarian, often leads to ulceration and ultimately to blindness.

 

Please be sure to place mineral oil in the eyes before bathing to ensure that the shampoo does not ulcerate or burn the eyes.

 

Keep hair away from the corners of the eyes on a regular basis so that dirt and debris do not end up in the eye area. This can be safely done with a #10 blade on your clipper or with blunt ended scissors.

 

Dental Care

 

Just as an animal?s teeth are one of the most certain indicators of the kind of food it should eat, so is the condition of a dog?s teeth an accurate indicator of the kind of food it has been given. It is not too much to expect the average dog to have perfect teeth at ten or more years of age, yet how often nowadays do we see six-year olds with teeth decayed beyond repair!

 

Building the teeth begins with the preceding generation by correct feeding of the bitch in whelp so that throughout pregnancy she will derive enough lime salts or calcium for both herself and her young. Calcium deficiency in puppies may result in delayed dentition and in poor baby teeth and later, if the deficiency is not made up, in defective permanent teeth. It will result many times also in loss of the mother?s own teeth, as she attempts to draw from her own body the calcium necessary for the formation of her little ones. Puppies are born with no visible evidence of first or temporary teeth. These start to break through the gums sometimes as early as the third week, though as a rule not before the fourth week. However, the feeding of the mother and the consequent vigor of the little ones have much to do with the exact time when these tiny, needle-sharp milk teeth first break through. Between the fourth and fifth month the gums grow noticeably inflamed and swollen as the permanent teeth prepare to push out the temporary teeth. The onset of this condition often results in excessive salivation, a restless desire to chew and gnaw on hard substances, mouthing of food, loss of appetite and occasionally vomiting.

 

Not all of these signs, of course, are invariably a cause for concern as in some cases the milk teeth are replaced by the permanent set with little if any upset or discomfort. In fact, a question often asked is, "What becomes of these baby teeth?" Nobody knows, so seldom are they actually seen in the ordinary care of the puppy. Once in a while a little tooth is found on the floor or close beside a hard bone that the puppy has used as a comforter. Beyond this, the little teeth disappear like magic as the new and larger teeth take their place.

 

Occasionally, a milk tooth is loathe to let go and must be pulled to make way for its successor or perhaps, the baby tooth is shoved sideways as the heavier second tooth becomes determined to occupy its rightful position. In this case, too, the milk tooth should be pulled. If this procedure is necessary, see your veterinarian. During the teething process, the puppy really needs a constant supply of bones that it cannot crush; bones hard enough to assist in breaking out the baby teeth and in natural lancing of the gums. Ice cubes can also help to soothe the gums during the teething process.

 

The permanent teeth, which may not be completely out until the end of the seventh month will, in the average dog, number forty-two, though the exact number varies, being occasionally higher in the longer natural muzzled breeds, and lower in the short-faced block muzzled breeds.

 

The permanent set is straight and sound and the gums returned to normal proportions. If the gums remain angry and swollen, if the mouthing of the food indicates too prolonged a tenderness, or rubbing the face with the paws suggests soreness and pressure, the jaws should be examined by a competent veterinarian or a dentist specializing in canine dental care.

It is true:

Dogs are subject to toothaches.

Dogs do suffer from tooth decay and rot.

Dogs do suffer from abscessed teeth.

Dogs do suffer from Pyorrhea.

Dogs do suffer from tartar and plaque.

Brush the teeth with a "doggie" toothpaste and do it daily for continual upkeep and low veterinary bills.

 

Fleas

 

As great as is the havoc played on the coat and skin by flea infestation, it is not nearly as great as the havoc wrought on the sufferer?s nervous system. Fleas, those all too familiar little brown-colored, shiny jumping jacks, tickle and nip the dog from his head to his toes, giving him scant respite even for sleep.

 

The true dog flea, though somewhat like the human flea, is much larger. It sets up an uncomfortable irritation in the skin which then becomes discolored. The tiny black dirt always found on the skin of an infested dog is flea excrement; this can be dissolved out by washing.

 

The sand flea or chigger is often found in northern latitudes but, being quite common in the South, sometimes finds its way to the North on transported animals. It is small, hence rarely detected except when a pregnant female fastens its prolonged head in the skin and grows a comparatively large, bulbous body filled with eggs. It is difficult to dislodge, even with a fingernail and when the body is broken off from the head and the latter left in the skin, it is a cause for infection. No attempt should therefore be made to scrape the sand flea off. The dog needs a flea bath.

 

The same will occur with ticks. Special care needs to be taken immediately. Contrary to public opinion, it is not necessary for dogs to have fleas. It is inevitable, though, that at the first opportunity fleas will jump from the pest-permeated soil onto the warm-blooded dogs. And there they breed and increase in surprising numbers. But they can and should be removed rather than passively accepted as the dog?s natural aggravator. Even if one discounts their coat destroying proclivities and the nervous deliberation they promote, fleas act as intermediary hosts for tapeworm and consequently represent a serious menace to your animal?s health.

 

Proper bathing with a good quality flea and tick shampoo will assist you with this problem.

 

No method of flea eradication is of much use without disinfecting the dog?s bedding, sleeping and play areas. Any blankets that serve as a bed must be washed in hot soapy water. All corners, cracks or crevices in the floor of the home and the dog?s kennel should be sprayed with a strong flea control liquid or powder to prevent

the hatching of the eggs that will be lodged there. Continuous spraying may be necessary for continuous control of an ongoing problem.

 

 

Coat Texture

 

Except for a few thinly covered, fine texture coated breeds, the dog?s coat is two ply; that is, it consists of an outer, weather resisting coat and an inner, close to the skin fluff that holds in the real warmth of the body.

 

The most important shedding then is that of the under coat. When this shed out occurs at the onset of warm weather, the skin becomes more easily ventilated and this allows the dog to keep cool. While the outer coat sheds noticeably, enough of it will remain to serve as a sun screen against burning of the skin and consequent over heating of the body.

 

Even on non-shedding dogs, the coat will loosen up twice a year, both in the spring and fall.

 

Clipping close to the body during the summer months defeats the care giver?s intention to make the dog more comfortable by removing the sun screen and subjecting the skin to attacks of gnats, mosquitoes, flies and ticks.

 

 

 

Brushing

 

Now brushing and combing are in themselves valuable for their stimulating action upon the skin; and they are even more so for their cleaning effect. Both brush and comb should be used with care, not wielded with a vengeance as is seen all too often.

 

To start, we brush using a good slicker brush or bristle brush.

 

Brushing is the separation of the hair strands that permits the air to get down to the skin and ventilate it.

 

The brush, if properly selected, has a burnishing effect upon the hair, giving it a live and glistening appearance. And it does, to a very limited extent, promote hair growth.

 

But brushing is not as efficacious as many seem to think; in other words, it cannot by itself produce a good crop of hair. Unless the body is fortified by good substantial food and unless the dog is backed by typical coated ancestors, all the brushing in the world will not grow a single hair.

 

Brush the entire coat using your Universal brush or bristle brush, depending on the type of coat.

 

Start with the hind leg at the paw. Gently work up and around the leg, lifting and working layer by layer. There is not a faster, more efficient way. This is a labor of love.

 

Next, work the second back leg. Then, do the tail.

 

Now, do the top line starting at the neck and working down the spine to the base of the tail.

 

Next, do the sides and abdomen, starting from the abdomen and working up the sides, layer by layer.

 

Now do the front legs, remembering to start at the paw and work up the leg in small layers. Check the armpits which often are matted due to coat friction.

 

Next is the chest, starting at the underchest between the legs and working up towards the neck, once again layer by layer.

 

Finally, do the head and ears, being careful not to scratch the eyes and the nose as well as the inside flap of the ears, as these can easily be torn by overzealous brush work.

 

Combing

 

To proof your work you will now take your comb and check your work.

 

The best comb for the dog?s coat is a 7-1/2" Combination Comb with 1-3/8" teeth, medium and fine.

 

After the dog is thoroughly brushed out, you should comb through the entire coat. This ensures that all mats and tangles are out. Obviously, if the comb cannot get through the coat, additional brushing will be required. You should be able to comb through the coat using the fine end of the Combination Comb.

 

Same pattern as for the brushing, working layer by layer.

 

1. Back legs

2. Tail

3. Topline

4. Abdomen

5. Front legs and armpits

6. Chest

7. Neck

8. Head and Muzzle

9. Ears

 

 

Dematting

 

Do not bathe an animal with mats in the coat. It only makes things worse. The tangled area will respond like a wool sweater hitting hot water! And the mat will just get tighter after drying.

 

As part of the brush-out, dematting may be required. This is necessary where there is severe matting of the coat.

 

Mats and tangles can and must be combed out. Using the last couple of teeth on your comb, gently hold the mat in one hand close to the skin so as not to pull the skin and knit out the matt a few hairs at a time. Gentle but consistent pulling will work to mat out, or you can use a wide toothed comb with teeth at least 2-1/2 inches long. To begin, use the comb to split the mat into manageable strands, and then move on to your slicker brush.

 

For a difficult mat, you may cut through it with a pair of thinning shears and then brush it out with the slicker brush.

 

Clipper Work

 

The WAHL A5 Clipper is the professional clipper of choice. It comes equipped with a #10 blade. The following blades should also be purchased: 4, 4F, 5, 5F, 7, 7F, and 30. Generally speaking, the higher the blade number, the closer the shave.

 

There are two steps to clipper work: the first step takes place before the bath and the second or ?finishing? clipping is done after the coat has been dried.

 

During the first clip, and according to the typical style, you would clip the dog with, for example, a #5 blade. The final clipping?or "finishing clip"?would, in this case, be done with a #5F blade.

 

There is no F blade for either the #10 or #30 blades.

 

Clipping of the dog is always done in the direction of the hair growth with only one exception ? poodle feet can be done against the grain for a tighter looking paw.

 

 

Bathing

 

No puppy or dog of any age should in fact be washed more often than once per month. The "dog owner" is in almost every case bent upon washing his pet too frequently, often bringing about a stubborn eczematous condition of the skin that is difficult to cure.

 

1. Select a warm, draftless room for the bath, with a rubber mat to prevent slipping.

 

2. Apply a heavy mineral oil to the animal?s eyes using an eyedropper (both of these items are readily available from your local drug store). Tilt the head back and with the same hand open the eye and with your other hand apply one or two drops of oil. This will prevent the shampoo from stinging or burning the mucous membranes of the eye.

 

3. With warm to cool water--never hot--saturate the animal?s coat right to the skin. The water will feel cool to cold to your hand.

 

4. Select a good quality moisturizing shampoo. Never use dish detergent or harsh household cleaning chemicals.

 

5. A. Dilute the shampoo with water in a separate non-breakable container.

 

B. Pre-wet the animal starting at the rear of the animal.

 

C. Apply the shampoo with a sponge or a soft face cloth, starting first with the hind legs, followed by the abdomen area, then the tail and then the ears, making sure not to get soap suds in the ear canal. Finally, proceed to the head again. Caution should be used in the eye area.

 

Lather the shampoo with your hands.

 

Don?t neglect an inch of the body surface with that firm but gentle rubbing in of the soap.

 

6. Rinse with clear, cool water.

 

7. Now, the initial soaping softens the dirt and the second soaping removes it, so if you want to clean the dog well you should soap twice, rinsing carefully each time.

 

Proper rinsing is the secret of the well kept coat, as soap left to dry on the hair or skin tends to promote scratching and subsequent irritation. Rinse with tepid water several times, working the water through the hair to make sure that it penetrates right down to the skin and leaves no vestige of soap behind.

 

8. To aid in handling the coat a good creme rinse is advisable for overall coat conditioning. Just like your hair, the dog?s coat will be more manageable after a good treatment. Apply the creme rinse in the same manner as the shampoo. Using a sponge or facecloth, start first with the hind legs, followed by the abdomen and back, the tail, the neck and finally the head, staying well away from the eyes.

 

9. Rinse your dog?s coat well with cool water, starting the final rinse with the head, then the neck, the back, the abdomen, legs and tail. Use your hands to ensure that the water is being pushed down to the skin. Make certain the water runs clear before you turn the tap off.

 

10. Towel dry your animal before removing it from the tub. Two or maybe even three towels may be necessary to do this properly.

 

 

 

Drying

 

The handling of the hair during drying is an important feature of the coat conditioning process, because wet hair is extremely tender and may be either improved or damaged at this time.

 

Wet hair should always be combed first with a wide tooth comb. Start with the back legs, then the tail, and then the top coat, starting at the neck and working your way back to the base of the tail. Next, do the front legs, followed by the chest and head. Ears are the last area to be combed. Always comb in the direction of the lay of the coat.

 

After all the hair has been combed, proceed to drying.

 

The hair will be encouraged to hold in the direction of the blow dry.

 

Blow dry the jacket with the help of a Universal or Tendercare Brush. To build volume, brush the coat upward and outward in fast quick strokes, keeping the dryer in the same direction of your brushing. You may drape a dry towel over the front half of the dog to keep him warm during this process. This will also help to keep the front leg and body hair from curling or waving on you. This method of drying will promote a full straight jacket. This will be a great help when you begin reclipping or scissoring the animal's hair.